PEARL PHILOSOPHY
For generations, the pearl has been a sign of elegance and luxury. Throughout history, the Maharajas of the East and the Kings of the West have valued pearls, and the pearl has been an invaluable heirloom to pass down to your kin.
But how does this classic and beautiful gift of nature come about? The birth of the pearl begins in the ocean. The bed of oysters serves as the perfect habitat for it to form a simple fragment of shell, fishbone or sand escapes into the shell of a pearl oyster. To protect itself from this irritant, the oyster secretes thousands of layers of nacre, forming a pearl.
While finding one used to be rare, recreating this natural process to cultivate pearls has allowed us to bring these wonders into our history, time and again. The pearl in all its glory, will always be the most incredible gem.
But how does this classic and beautiful gift of nature come about? The birth of the pearl begins in the ocean. The bed of oysters serves as the perfect habitat for it to form a simple fragment of shell, fishbone or sand escapes into the shell of a pearl oyster. To protect itself from this irritant, the oyster secretes thousands of layers of nacre, forming a pearl.
While finding one used to be rare, recreating this natural process to cultivate pearls has allowed us to bring these wonders into our history, time and again. The pearl in all its glory, will always be the most incredible gem.
Freshwater Pearl
Although freshwater pearls are the most commonly produced pearls, their unique shapes and wide range of colours combined with their attractive/affordable price and charming character, have made them a favourite among jewellery designers, shoppers and pearl connoisseurs alike. While they characteristically range in shape from baroque to round.
Where do they come from?
Although most freshwater pearl information lists several areas of the world as home to pearl-producing mussels, the global freshwater market is overwhelmingly dominated by Chinese pearl farms, which account for nearly all freshwater pearls sold today.
At freshwater pearl farms, each mussel is surgically implanted with 24 to 32 tiny pieces of mantle tissue, a process known as nucleation. Once the tissue has been inserted, a sac forms and cells begin secreting nacre (pronounced Nay-Ker), forming a calcium-carbonate compound – a pearl. Over the course of 2 to 7 years, the mussels deposit layer upon layer of nacre around the growing gems, generally producing more than two dozen pearls clustered on the inside of each shell.
After harvest, millions of pearls are sorted carefully and matched for size, shape, colour, and quality. Once the sorting is complete, loose pearls are available for sale individually and strands of matched pearls are sold on temporary strings
At freshwater pearl farms, each mussel is surgically implanted with 24 to 32 tiny pieces of mantle tissue, a process known as nucleation. Once the tissue has been inserted, a sac forms and cells begin secreting nacre (pronounced Nay-Ker), forming a calcium-carbonate compound – a pearl. Over the course of 2 to 7 years, the mussels deposit layer upon layer of nacre around the growing gems, generally producing more than two dozen pearls clustered on the inside of each shell.
After harvest, millions of pearls are sorted carefully and matched for size, shape, colour, and quality. Once the sorting is complete, loose pearls are available for sale individually and strands of matched pearls are sold on temporary strings
How are they compared to other types of pearls?
Best known for their whimsical shapes and wide variety of sizes and colours, the character of a freshwater pearl is found in its distinctive surface texture and the warmth of its lustre. The nacre of a high-quality freshwater pearl does not typically have the glossy, metallic finish found in akoya pearls, and they are evaluated on separate quality scales.
What colours, shapes, and sizes are available?
Because they offer a wider diversity of colours, shapes, and sizes than any other type of pearl, freshwater pearls are often used in fancy designer jewellery. In addition to the traditional white body colour, these pearls come in a rainbow of natural pastel colours such as lavender, pink, and every shade in between. Most freshwater pearl information notes their varied shapes, including potato-shaped and stick pearls, rice-shaped and button pearls, coin-shaped and drop pearls, off-round and round pearls, seed pearls and Khakha Pearls.
Sizes ranges from tiny seed pearls measuring 1 or 2 mm in diameter to 15 mm and larger.
How rare and valuable are they?
While freshwater pearls as a variety are the most common type of pearl, very round and lustrous freshwater pearls are very difficult to find. Top-of-the-line freshwater pearls are dazzling in their rich, bright lustre, and their unique charm will last you a lifetime.
Akoya Pearl
The akoya pearl is a saltwater cultured pearl from the akoya oyster. Because akoya is the most abundant type of saltwater pearl with the longest cultured history, information on akoya pearl is abundant. Akoya is considered to be the classic pearl used for necklaces and other pearl jewellery, with perfect round shapes, bright mirror-like lustre and neutral colours, akoya pearls are favoured by most retailers and consumers as the classic pearl choice.
How do they compare to other types of pearls?
Unlike their freshwater cousins, akoya pearl oysters rarely produce more than two pearls per harvest. The oysters are nucleated with a bead composed of mother-of-pearl and a small piece of mantle tissue. This bead becomes the nucleus of the pearl and is the reason akoya pearls are more often perfectly round. This shape, combined with the high-lustre found on top-quality akoya pearls, and their relative rarity compared to freshwater pearls, gives akoya pearls a higher perceived value.
What colours, shapes, and sizes are available?
An interesting piece of akoya pearl trivia is that the akoya oyster is the smallest commercially farmed, pearl-producing oyster. An average akoya pearl is only 7 mm, while an average South Sea pearl is in the 12 mm range. Akoya pearls are currently being harvested in sizes from as small as 2 mm up to the very rare 10-11 mm.
Akoya pearls are inherently round, although every harvest produces a percentage of baroque and keshi pearls, which tend to have the bright lustre and shine common to the akoya, but a shape and look reminiscent of a freshwater or baroque South Sea. Akoya pearls, unless colour-treated, have neutral colours and overtones. Most pearls are white to grey, with pink or silver overtones.
Akoya pearls are inherently round, although every harvest produces a percentage of baroque and keshi pearls, which tend to have the bright lustre and shine common to the akoya, but a shape and look reminiscent of a freshwater or baroque South Sea. Akoya pearls, unless colour-treated, have neutral colours and overtones. Most pearls are white to grey, with pink or silver overtones.
How rare and valuable are they?
While the akoya pearl is considered to be (overall) more rare and valuable than the freshwater pearl, it is only the third most valuable commercially produced pearl, falling behind South Sea and Tahitians.
Where do they come from?
The vast majority of the world’s akoya pearls are produced in Japan, which is the undisputed akoya pearl producing centre of the world. China was once a genuine contender, but the Chinese akoya industry was destroyed in 2007 due to a natural disaster.
South Sea Pearl
Their large size, limited culturing area, and extended growth period all combine to make South Sea pearls the rarest & most valuable pearls produced today. Found in colours ranging from optic white to warm golden tones, they are completely natural, and no treatments are needed to enjoy the beauty of these luxurious gems. The lustre of South Seas pearls, whether white or golden, is soft and luxurious.
How do they compare to other types of pearls?
South Sea pearls are generally much larger than other pearl types and have a unique lustre quality. They also have the thickest average nacre among all cultured pearls. These factors make South Seas both distinctive and valuable. South Sea pearls have the highest value and command the highest prices of all types of pearls.
The value of a golden South Sea pearl is heavily dependent upon the colour; the deeper the golden colour, the more valuable the pearl. The overall value of these pearls is higher than akoya or Tahitian. The deepest golden colour, often referred to as 24 karat, is considered the most valuable colour of all South Sea pearls.
However, the growth period of South Sea pearl is approximately 2 – 4 years, unlike the akoya pearls, which develop in less than half that time. Attempts to expand South Sea pearl farming has met with little success because the oysters do not thrive outside their native, natural environment.
The value of a golden South Sea pearl is heavily dependent upon the colour; the deeper the golden colour, the more valuable the pearl. The overall value of these pearls is higher than akoya or Tahitian. The deepest golden colour, often referred to as 24 karat, is considered the most valuable colour of all South Sea pearls.
However, the growth period of South Sea pearl is approximately 2 – 4 years, unlike the akoya pearls, which develop in less than half that time. Attempts to expand South Sea pearl farming has met with little success because the oysters do not thrive outside their native, natural environment.
What colours, shapes, and sizes are available?
South Sea pearls can be found in the range of 8 to 20 mm, with the average being 12 mm. Although extremely rare, some pearls have been found larger than 20 mm. An 8 mm pearl would be considered a large pearl of akoya, but this is the smallest size one will find in South Sea. Majority are quite large, and they tend to have very thick nacre.
Since the natural colours of South Sea pearls are so rich and beautiful, after harvesting they are merely washed and buffed to remove any residue and bring out their natural glow. Baroque and drop-shapes are often used in high-end designer jewellery to showcase their unique shapes and lustre. This also makes the South Sea pearls available at a variety of price levels.
Since the natural colours of South Sea pearls are so rich and beautiful, after harvesting they are merely washed and buffed to remove any residue and bring out their natural glow. Baroque and drop-shapes are often used in high-end designer jewellery to showcase their unique shapes and lustre. This also makes the South Sea pearls available at a variety of price levels.
How rare and valuable are they?
Of all the cultured pearl varieties in the market today, South Sea pearls are the most undisputed leaders in value. Their large size, combined with the relative scarcity, make them among the most desired as well.
The baroque shapes are often used individually in unique antique jewellery pieces which makes them more affordable while still showcasing their natural, authentic beauty.
The baroque shapes are often used individually in unique antique jewellery pieces which makes them more affordable while still showcasing their natural, authentic beauty.
Where do they come from?
The majority of white South Sea pearls are cultured along the northwest coast of Australia. Pearls of the golden variety are also produced primarily in the Philippines and Indonesia – two countries that are quickly becoming the leaders in the finest South Sea pearl production.
However, typically South Sea Pearls are often sold as a mixture of both white & golden colour. The auctions are held several times each year in Japan and Hong Kong.
However, typically South Sea Pearls are often sold as a mixture of both white & golden colour. The auctions are held several times each year in Japan and Hong Kong.
Tahitian Pearl
Exotic black pearls are more commonly known as Tahitian pearls. Tahitian pearls are relative newcomers to the pearl world, popularized only as early as the mid-1900s.
Tahitian pearls were once the rarest, most valuable cultured pearls in the world.
Unlike the more common pearl types, Tahitian pearls typically have a naturally dark body colour. These pearls have become some of the most sought-after, expensive pearls in the world. Because of their vast colour range, matching these pearls into a finished strand is an enormous task requiring thousands of loose pearls to create a single strand.
Tahitian pearls were once the rarest, most valuable cultured pearls in the world.
Unlike the more common pearl types, Tahitian pearls typically have a naturally dark body colour. These pearls have become some of the most sought-after, expensive pearls in the world. Because of their vast colour range, matching these pearls into a finished strand is an enormous task requiring thousands of loose pearls to create a single strand.
How do they compare to other types of pearls?
Tahitian pearls are considered to be the second most valuable commercially farmed pearls in the world. Unlike black freshwater and black akoya pearls, which have been irradiated or dyed, Tahitians come by their dark colour naturally. The nacre of Tahitian pearls is typically very thick.
What colours, shapes, and sizes are available?
Beautiful Tahitian pearls are among the largest pearls in the world, ranging in size from approximately 8 mm to 18 mm. The beauty of Tahitian pearls, however, is not limited to their size, but their incredible array of iridescent colours. Tahitian pearls are the only pearls that have a full colour spectrum. Black-lip pearl oysters have a rainbow-like mantle which exhibits all natural colours. These colours are expressed in Tahitian pearls in a magical way with colours shimmering over the surface of some of the best specimens.
Because Tahitian pearls are bead nucleated many of them are round, or near round, with other shapes expressed in drops, baroques, button and circled pearls. When all other factors are equal, round Tahitian pearls are the most valuable.
Because Tahitian pearls are bead nucleated many of them are round, or near round, with other shapes expressed in drops, baroques, button and circled pearls. When all other factors are equal, round Tahitian pearls are the most valuable.
Keshi Pearl
A Keshi pearl is a seedless cultured saltwater pearl. All cultured salt water pearl producing oysters produce the Keshi pearl. The Keshi comes about due to a number of reasons. Sometimes the oyster rejects the implanted nuclei and just pure nacre grows in the mantle sack. Other times oysters are re-nucleated with a new mantle tissue graft for a second pearl to be grown. The original mantle tissue sack again continues to produce nacre in the now seedless sack.
A Keshi pearls size is determined by how long it has been growing inside the oyster and is only harvested at the end of the oysters’ useful life as a pearl producing oyster. A Keshi pearl may have been growing for up to six years or more, and hence can be very large.
The term Keshi is often misused to describe shape. Many Keshi are very free form and have distinct corners and angles. However, there are Keshi that come in more uniform and even near round shapes. The term Keshi is widely used with freshwater pearls to describe shape, but please note there is no such thing as a Keshi freshwater pearl. The term exclusively means a seedless saltwater pearl. Its name is derived from the Japanese term for “Poppy Seed” as the Japanese Akoya pearl oyster only produces very small Keshi’s, about the size of a poppy seed.
A Keshi pearls size is determined by how long it has been growing inside the oyster and is only harvested at the end of the oysters’ useful life as a pearl producing oyster. A Keshi pearl may have been growing for up to six years or more, and hence can be very large.
The term Keshi is often misused to describe shape. Many Keshi are very free form and have distinct corners and angles. However, there are Keshi that come in more uniform and even near round shapes. The term Keshi is widely used with freshwater pearls to describe shape, but please note there is no such thing as a Keshi freshwater pearl. The term exclusively means a seedless saltwater pearl. Its name is derived from the Japanese term for “Poppy Seed” as the Japanese Akoya pearl oyster only produces very small Keshi’s, about the size of a poppy seed.
Natural Pearl
Natural pearls are pearls which have been formed without any human intervention. The formation of pearls is actually a natural defence system which helps molluscs to isolate any irritations to the creature’s body, caused by the intrusion of parasites or other injuries. The mollusc isolates the affected area, this can scar tissue or the actual parasite itself, by encapsulating it with layers of nacre (also called mother of pearl).
Traditional pearl fishing already existed thousands of years before the start of our calendar and continued on a considerable scale up to the beginning of the 20th century. Especially in the Red Sea, the Persian Gulf and the waters surrounding Sri Lanka, many natural pearls were found. But even then, good quality pearls were a rarity. Less than one in every 1000 oysters that were brought to shore by the pearl divers contained a pearl and from those pearls only a small percentage was of true gem quality. During those centuries of intense pearl fishing, the seas have been virtually stripped of all natural pearls.
Nowadays, natural nacreous pearls are hardly ever found. Along the coasts of Sri Lanka and Bahrain, pearl fishing is still sporadically done and only every now and then, a natural pearl is brought to the surface. Most natural nacreous pearls available on the market today, are “old” pearls which are part of pre 1930’s collections.
Traditional pearl fishing already existed thousands of years before the start of our calendar and continued on a considerable scale up to the beginning of the 20th century. Especially in the Red Sea, the Persian Gulf and the waters surrounding Sri Lanka, many natural pearls were found. But even then, good quality pearls were a rarity. Less than one in every 1000 oysters that were brought to shore by the pearl divers contained a pearl and from those pearls only a small percentage was of true gem quality. During those centuries of intense pearl fishing, the seas have been virtually stripped of all natural pearls.
Nowadays, natural nacreous pearls are hardly ever found. Along the coasts of Sri Lanka and Bahrain, pearl fishing is still sporadically done and only every now and then, a natural pearl is brought to the surface. Most natural nacreous pearls available on the market today, are “old” pearls which are part of pre 1930’s collections.
Conch Pearl
The rarest and most valuable of all natural pearls, Conch pearls come from many different subspecies of conch. Conch pearls used in jewellery mostly come from the Queen Conch (Strombus gigas) which are found throughout the Caribbean and Central American oceans. The finest quality conch pearls have a glowing pink colour and a brilliant flame pattern below the surface.
We see a lot of Horse conch pearls in the market today, they are extremely valuable as well, but their mustard and peachy brown tones do not fetch the same prices as the pink Queen Conch pearls.
We see a lot of Horse conch pearls in the market today, they are extremely valuable as well, but their mustard and peachy brown tones do not fetch the same prices as the pink Queen Conch pearls.